Bhutan travel guide

The practical questions travellers from Bangladesh and India ask us most, answered plainly. If something here is unclear, message us and we will answer properly.

Getting to Bhutan

From Dhaka. There are direct flights from Dhaka to Paro, and it is comfortably the fastest way in — a short hop rather than a day of travel. Flights into Paro are weather-dependent and operate in daylight only, so schedules can shift; we build a buffer into itineraries for that reason.

From Kolkata. Direct flights run from Kolkata to Paro. Travellers from elsewhere in India often route through Kolkata or Delhi.

Overland from Siliguri and West Bengal. The land crossing is at Phuentsholing, opposite Jaigaon on the Indian side, roughly four to five hours from Siliguri or Bagdogra. From Phuentsholing it is a further day’s drive up to Thimphu and Paro. It is slower than flying but cheaper, and the climb through the foothills is genuinely worth seeing.

When to visit

Spring, March to May. Rhododendrons in flower, clear-ish skies, comfortable daytime temperatures. One of the two busiest seasons, and one of the best.

Summer monsoon, June to August. Rain, cloud and leeches on the trails — but also deep green valleys, far fewer visitors and lower rates. Mountain views are unreliable.

Autumn, September to November. The clearest skies of the year and the biggest festivals. This is peak season, and hotels in Paro and Thimphu book out well ahead.

Winter, December to February. Cold, especially at altitude, but exceptionally clear — the best odds of seeing the Himalaya from the Dochula Pass. This is also crane season in the Phobjikha Valley.

Entry requirements and fees

In broad terms: visitors to Bhutan need a permit or visa arranged in advance through a licensed local operator, and pay a per-night Sustainable Development Fee. The rate differs by nationality, and travellers from India are treated differently from most other passports.

We handle the paperwork as part of every booking — you do not apply separately. What we need from you is your passport details and your dates.

[PLACEHOLDER — Kelly Bhutan to supply current SDF rates and permit requirements per nationality. Deliberately left unstated rather than risk publishing a figure that has since changed.]

What to pack

Common questions

Five to seven days covers the western valleys properly — Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and the Tiger’s Nest — without rushing. Three or four days is enough for Paro and Thimphu alone, which is a perfectly good short trip. Ten days or more opens up Phobjikha, Haa or the drive east to Bumthang.

Yes. Crime against visitors is rare, and travellers regularly describe it as one of the easier countries they have travelled in. The realistic risks are altitude, mountain roads and weather-affected flights — all of which we plan around.

Paro and Thimphu sit at roughly 2,200 to 2,300 metres, which most people handle without difficulty. Passes go considerably higher. Mild breathlessness and disturbed sleep on the first night are common; anything worse is not, and we build a gentle first day in for that reason.

Bhutanese food leans heavily on chilli — ema datshi, chillies with cheese, is the national dish and is genuinely hot. Hotels serve milder Indian, Chinese and continental food as standard, and Bangladeshi and Indian travellers rarely have trouble eating well. Tell us about dietary needs in advance.

Coverage is good in the western valleys and patchier in remote areas. Local SIM cards are cheap and easy to buy on arrival, and most hotels have wifi of varying quality.

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